Now I have LT, SL-V5010-10, 10s + LT, RD-V5010-LX, 10s and i was wondering if I can keep the shifter and only change the derailleur from ltwoo to shimano

I found the attached schem for Shimano, is there something similar for other brands or a table that collects all major brands products?

Hello Wrenchers, I took the plunge to tubeless this week on my 2022 Cannondale Topstone gravel bike. Getting the tires on wasn't too hard (just messy). I used parts from my local bike store, including 2 new WTB Riddler "TCS" tires, a new valve for each tire, and about 3 ounces of Stans sealent in each tire.

But now that they're on, they're both very slowly leaking. I did the soapy water test and I can see about 5 spots on the front tire and 2 on the back tire where bubbles appear (not at the valve).

Any tips for fixing this?

Thanks!

EDITS: Added a couple of things...

Hello! After I removed the rear wheel from a bike with a Shimano Nexus gear system to repair a puncture, I am having problems reassembling the rear wheel and its gear system: After screwing in the black screw (framed in yellow in the photo), it can be turned further without resistance. The gear shift can be easily removed from the wheel nut (pink arrow in the photo) instead of being firmly seated again.

I have repaired punctures on the same wheel before, removing and refitting the wheel in the process, but have not had any such problems.

I have not opened the gear box and cannot see any obvious damage. Any ideas what could be wrong?

I recently got a "new" bike to replace my stolen one, and my one complaint about is that the lowest gear is still too high for some of the hills I ride on. Now, I counted 26 teeth on the largest gear on the cassette. Can I just get a new cassette with more teeth, adjust the derailleur and be done?

I serviced the motor about a year ago and didn’t notice anything alarming inside. One of the bearings was a bit dirty and rusty, but I managed to clean and lubricate it, and the noise doesn’t quite sound like a bad bearing.

I can only hear it on alternating pedal pushes. If I just jump on one pedal, there's no sound, but if I shift my weight from one side to the other, it appears. I'm starting to suspect it might be coming from the motor mounts - maybe there's some flex and it's rubbing against the frame - but I'm not sure, and I don’t really know what to do about it either. Sometimes the noise disappears entirely, while other times it gets exceptionally loud.

All I know for certain is that it's not the pedals or the cranks. I cleaned the mounting surfaces and bolts with acetone, but that didn’t help. Then I tried the opposite and greased them, but that didn’t make a difference either. At this point, I really don’t know what to try next. I’d rather fix it myself than take it to a bike shop.

The bike is GZR Black Raw and the motor is Bafang M400

Greetings fellow fediverse bike-wrenchers; I want to talk about the Zyklop Mini today.

I love it and it's the best tool I've ever bought, bar none. With the (optional) bit check it stows nicely in a trousers pocket, apron, or ride bag/jersey pocket. It makes tightening up almost every bolt on most bikes trivial even when they're tucked nicely in some bullshit aero location. It lives in my 'everynday' bag, and it sees use almost every day. On rides I've adjusted almost every contact point on my bike with it. It even manages to deal with my brifter bolts in their almost stripped state.

Bonus points because it's also a great fidget.

Is it cheap? No. Is it worthwhile? Yes, very. I used generic 1/4" bits and bought the bit check case on eBay for pennies to save myself some pain.

What are your well-worth-the-money/never-leave-home-without cool tools?

Dave Rome's stuff is great anyway - but the Wheels MFG mat with bearing sizer is especially nice; it's a pretty affordable quality of life upgrade for a workshop. Certainly easier than a ruler or whatever shoddy calipers your boss has bought you...

As the title says! I have a fixie and after a period of riding brakeless, it's time to install a front brake again. Mainly because I use it for endurance/audax as well and I'm not doing that brakeless. I don't have a death wish yet... For balance, looks and grip, I'm installing a lever on either side (Tektro RL520, nothing too fancy shmancy). I have flared drop bars, and I'm figuring out how to properly mount these. Anybody has some tips? Thanks!

I ordered two new tires, or mantles I believe is what they’re called. One looked fine and I mounted it on my bike. The other one looks quite warped. It’s not soft but rather pretty sturdy, so I worry it wont sit correctly if I try to install it.

I’m a newb to this, first time I even changed a tube by myself. So let me know if I need to add more information.

Thanks!

Edit: thanks everyone! I’ll give it a try tomorrow.

Hello.

I have a problem regarding choosing new tyres for my e-bike. I have narrowed the choice down to 2 options:

Kenda Kraze

Pros (from reviews):

• Looks cool
• Strong rubber (lasts long)
• Cheaper (total: 85€)

Cons:

• Stiff ride
• Slippery when on smallest amount of sand
• Lower profile (makes a gap between fenders and the tyre itself)

Schwalbe Super Moto-X

Pros:

• (Looks like) better in rain and not affected by debris on the road
• Comfier ride

Cons:

• Expensive (total: 115€)
• Worse looks

I can't make up my mind on which ones to buy, because I really like the look of the Kendas, but am worried about their performance in rain and the ride quality.

What would you recommend?

This is a Schwalbe studded winter tire I bought a few months ago, and I'm not sure what exactly I did to get it like this but for some reason the bead seems to be warped or stretched. It doesn't want to fit my rims. There's a small section of the tire that's popped out of the rim, and when I try to lever it back into place the bead pulls out further down.

I've tried this tire on two different rims with the same results, and to make doubly sure it isn't the rims I put on one of my old Schwalbe Marathon tires which fit perfectly. Both tires are 40-635 700b.

Is this repairable? I don't have much experience dealing with tires but I find it unusual that this tire seemed to be fine until now when I changed out the wheel.

Edit: Thanks for support! Right now my plan is to try and replace the grease in the hub with something known to work in low temperatures.

So I got some new wheels for my commuter and on my first ride, after ~3 miles it feels like I'm getting some chain skipping - I wasn't - then soon after the hub completely stops engaging and I walk home.

Never had that happen before. Thought it might be a cold temperature issue but bringing the bike indoors overnight didn't seem to resolve it right away, but eventually something did. A short test ride later and the hub froze up again.

They're Hunt wheels, I reached out and they said it's unexpected but probably not because of the cold temperatures (about 20F). They sent a new set and the exact same thing happened on the first ride, about the same distance.

I'm leaning toward it being a temperature thing, and they just have too thick of a grease in the freehub that is getting thicker in the cold? If this is the case, would it be simple to pull apart, clean, and replace with a different grease?

I hate driving to work, so I'm tempted to try and pick up a hub locally this weekend to swap (if that's possible, I've never tried and haven't looked into standards or anything).

If it is a temperature thing, it can get to -40F here, and I (usually) still bike to work in those temps, so let me know if there's anything I should "shop for" in a replacement.

If anyone has any other ideas what could cause this, let me know! I'm worried I used the wrong cassette or something dumb that I don't know about (Hunt support didn't seem to think so). I suppose there is the chance that I just got 2 bad sets in a row.

More info:

• HUNT 4 Season Gravel wheelset
  • Shimano/SRAM HG Splined
• Cassette: Shimano CS-LG300 CUES LINKGLIDE HG 9sp Cassette 11-41t
• The wheel's freehub came with a spacer for compatibility with different cassette types and I am not using the spacer: A guide on when to use the spacer

For what it's worth, Hunt has been great to work with

Got tired of bad shifting and brake rub, when going between my two wheel sets, and the home trainer

So time to shim it all in place

No wonder the shifting was bad, I have to shim one of the cassettes 1.25

In the thumbnail is my freehub after running a new set of wheels for 1700 km. From how I understand the "anti-bite" feature, it should prevent the cassette from gouging further into the soft metal of the splines, by taking up those forces on the strip of steel on one of the splines. And that seems like a reasonable idea, since further gouging beyond a cosmetic issue would prevent removal of the cassette.

My question is whether the higher torque caused by a mid-drive torque might one day overwhelm the steel strip, resulting in a locked cassette to the freehub. So far, I don't see any evidence of the strip giving way, and I'm normally under the assumption that the allowable torques of standard bicycles -- although tested by ebikes -- should still tolerate this sort of application.

Does anyone know of scenarios where the anti-bite strip fails in-situ? Note that this isn't a particularly pricey freehub, and I mostly built up this wheel as a long-term test to see how long it would last. For when it does fail, I plan to rebuild with a DT Swiss hub, finances allowing.

https://imgur.com/a/XNxpoGh

I bought this but it doesn't really fit:

https://www.tradeinn.com/bikeinn/en/unior-suntour-freewheel-remover-3-4-tool/137598206/p

This is to help get off crank bolts. I swear I've seen it around but I can't find who makes it right now. It's a 8mm hex/allen (kinda stubby), and it has 15mm flats just outside that so you can put something like a pedal wrench on it. Might be kind of skinny flats.

I thought this might have been made by pedros, but I don't see it on their site. I assume this would be steel construction by whoever makes it.

My use case is that I have a medium size portable tool bag, and the regular 8mm hex is fine, except when it isn't. And i dont carry ratchets, let alone a big one. But I carry a beefy pedal wrench, so the 15mm flats would be perfect for this. Any leads?

Edit: I found it! EVT makes it. https://www.efficientvelo.com/tools/knuckle-saver-pedal-wrench-adapter

Hey guys,

I'm looking to possibly upgrade the shifters on my 90s MTB from grip shifters to friction thumb shifters.

I'm currently eyeing the microSHIFT SL-M10 (https://www.microshift.com/models/sl-m10/), which is listed as being compatible with Shimano MTB 2/3×10.

Currently have a 7 cog cassette using an Alivio 7 speed derailleur. I also have a Deore LX M567 (8 speed) derailleur available, which would be a nice upgrade if compatible with the friction shifter.

Here are my questions:

1. Would that 10 speed shifter work with lower speed derailleurs?

2. What advantage, if any, would i get with a friction shifter listed for 8 or 9 speed derailleurs?

3. On the SLM10 shifter, it's got an indexed mode, too. Would that work with 7 speed, and if so, are limits set by the derailleur or do these things have hard stops built into them?

Thanks in advance.

UPDATE: I ended up spending a little (a lot...) more and getting a pair of Rivendell Silver2 shifters + thumbie mounts. Really nice quality and a beautiful ratcheting system. Loving friction shifters!

So... I discovered that I can still get parts for my mid-90s MTB, which is the bike I use for everything hauling, winter, and off-road.

Initially, I was thinking of upgrading to more modern parts, but the components have been so good that I'd rather just refresh them.

I did order a "new old stock" crank/chainring, which I'm really excited about. Since I wax my chain, I don't see me ever having a need to replace it again.

But, I'd like to get a front and rear derailleur that are in better condition.

Both are the original Shimano Alivio RD-MC10 and FD-MC10, which I can still buy as used parts (which look like they are much better condition than the ones I've got).

But I'm curious to know if newer models in this series would be directly compatible with my existing cassette/chainrings and grip shifters. Things like the MC11, MC12, etc.

Does anyone have a clue? It's hard enough to find information about vintage bike parts, but I figure it's worth asking before I go with the same ones.

Hoping someone can offer some advice. I'm working on a late 80s Raleigh Montage, 88 I think. It has a u-brake on the rear which dates it.

Anyway I have it all stripped down, including the cup and cone bb.

The only thing I can't seem to remove are the headset cups, as the headtube is slightly flared on the inside top and bottom, so I can't get the tool to make contact with the edge of the cup.

What am I missing here? How do I get these out?

Hey! I had a minor crash the other day. Luckily I was unhurt, but unfortunately my “brifter” (new word for me) took the entirety of the hit.

Over the past year I’ve been learning about bike maintenance, and now have a decent understanding in some areas but not shifters/brake levers and associated cabling. So… the silver linings is that now I get to fill that gap!

I’ve tried to research how to resolve my current brifter-less situation. I have a Kona Rove DL 2021, 1x11 gearing and SRAM Rival 1 group set. I have the following questions:

1. Where can I find a replacement SRAM Rival 1 brifter!? I’m in Finland, and can only seem to find the SRAM Rival 22 or SRAM Apex 1. I don’t believe the SRAM Rival 22 is the same product, but all my searching directs me to it and it seems to look identical.
2. If I cannot find a replacement SRAM Rival 1 brifter, what are compatible (/best) alternatives (<200€)?

Then, once I have a replacement brifter, is my understanding of the easiest replacement process accurate?

1. Disconnect both the derailleur cable and brake cable
2. Unwrap handlebar tape
3. Remove derailleur cable and brake cable via broken brifter
4. Remove broken brifter

Reverse process with new brifter and cables. And does anyone have any “gotchas” or tips for me to bear in mind?

Thanks for any advice!

I have some cotton velox rim tape but it's not very sticky and so I'm struggling to apply it to my rims.

Can I just use a few dots of superglue here and there to stick it down?

The upgraded model has the same low-end adjustability and a wider wide vs the old style. Yet, it's only compatible with 27.5 - 29"?

Typo?

I've got 32mm wide tires on my road/gravel bike. Currently looking at TPU tubes and I've got two options:

• 32-47mm
• 18-32mm

So, is it better to get one over the other, or will they both work equally well? Never used TPU tubes before, so I wouldn't even have a reference to compare these.