this post was submitted on 09 Sep 2026
61 points (98.4% liked)

Buy it for Life

9208 readers
5 users here now

A place to share practical, durable and quality made products that are made to last, with an emphasis on upcycled and sustainable products!

Guidelines:

Things that are well-made and durable (even if they won't last a lifetime) are A-Okay!

Unlike that other BIFL place, Home-made and DIY items are encouraged here, as long as some form of instruction is included in the body of the post.

Videos links are not allowed as post titles, but you may use them in a text post.

A limited amount of self-promotion is accepted, IF the item you are selling aligns with this criteria:

  1. The item must be made with sustainable or recycled materials.
  2. If electronic in some way, the item must be open-source.
  3. The item must be user-serviceable (if applicable).
  4. You cannot be a large corporation.
  5. The post must be clearly marked with a [Self Promotion] tag in your title.

founded 3 years ago
MODERATORS
 

I usually just buy a leather wallet at some store and it starts to get grungy after a year or so. Any recommendations? Thanks.

you are viewing a single comment's thread
view the rest of the comments
[–] Fondots@lemmy.world 4 points 4 days ago (1 children)

For solid recommendations you'll probably need to give some additional details about what kind of wallet you prefer, how many cards and such you carry in it, and which pocket you carry it in.

Bifold vs trifold vs zipper vs money clip etc, front or back pocket, etc.

In general, if you're looking for leather goods, try to avoid "genuine leather" that's basically the lowest grade, and about the only nice thing that can be said about it is that it's not fake.

Basically all leather goods benefit from a bit of care now and then, like cleaning with some saddle soap and some sort of leather conditioner. Over time all leather goods will tend to develop some creases and wear. In some cases that just adds to the character, in other cases it might look kind of grungy, and that's kind of up to personal taste.

Personally I'm a back pocket wallet guy, and after using thicker leather wallets for most of my life that started to give me a little bit of back pain from sitting on it, so I switched to a thinner nylon wallet (I use a Chums surf short wall for my EDC) and that's held up probably as well as any leather wallet I've personally used (not that I bought particularly great leather wallets) and a simple metal money clip for dressier occasions

But I also don't carry very much with me. ID, a couple cards, and maybe a little bit of cash.

[–] ArmoredThirteen@lemmy.zip 1 points 4 days ago (2 children)

Interesting about genuine leather. I decided to check the wallet I've had with me for going on 20 years now the only mark I see on it says "genuine leather". I never do any kind of care to it, it's gone through all manner of weather from tropical rain to -30c, zero signs of damage. It's perhaps the longest lasting most reliable thing I've ever owned and it sees daily abuse

[–] Fondots@lemmy.world 3 points 4 days ago (2 children)

I will admit that I'm simplifying leather quality terminology quite a lot with that.

Really that's only part of the grading. There's different layers to leather like there is to our skin

Full grain leather is basically what you probably think leather is- a slab of animal hide with flesh removed that's been tanned

Top grain leather has basically had the very top layer sanded down to remove any imperfections.

Split gain leather has had ever more of the top layers removed (suede is a type of split grain) to

And genuine leather has had even more layers removed and usually needs a lot of processing done to it to make it look decent

The topmost layers are the most durable, and so genuine leather tends to not hold up as well as other grades, but it does have some valid uses, full grain leather can be stiff, and genuine leather tends to be pretty soft and flexible, and the other layers in between have their own properties that may or may not be desirable to preserve depending on the intended use.

And within those categories there are still other ways of grading quality- the quality of the hide you started with, different types of treatments and processing, etc. so there is genuine leather out there that is pretty nice, and trash full grain leather.

But as a genuine rule of thumb, if you're looking for a sturdy leather thing, genuine leather usually isn't the way to go

And then a step down you have stuff like bonded leather which is basically shredded up leather that's been mixed with rubber and such and formed into a sheet.

[–] ArmoredThirteen@lemmy.zip 1 points 3 days ago

I had no idea there was so much to it! Makes sense though it's been around forever of course there are a lot of specifics in how it gets processed

Top grain leather has basically had the very top layer sanded down to remove any imperfections.

Thats actually nubuck or "corrected grain". "Top grain" without any modifiers on it shouldn't have anything taken off the top.

"Genuine leather" isnt technically bad, it's just a very broad and not useful term.

It literally just means exactly what it says, that it's not fake leather. You could take full thickness of a hide and label that genuine leather (though "full grain" would be a better descriptor). You could also take a bunch of suede scraps, glue them together, and coat it in polyurethane to look like a full grain, and label that "genuine leather".

You might have an actually decent leather. Nowadays, since people are more savvy to the meaninglessness of the term, reputable leather goods are typically not marked "genuine leather" since it has a negative connotation, but maybe not when you bought your wallet.