FWIW I just looked at the AliExpress-tier options and they are much cheaper
Those low cost Aliexpress hdmi over RJ45 are "last gen" HDMI limiting yourself to 4k@30Hz. This place already has CAT7 cabling so this would have been so much easier but sadly it isn't good enough and the current gen are to expensive.
I didn’t even know HDMI cables went up to 15m for the copper version.
They are fiber optic with copper for power supply and side channel. For some reason they are fairly affordable compared to OM3 fiber solutions. Probably due to them running multiple fibers allowing the transceiver to be slower and simpler. With OM4 cables there is only one fiber per direction. I think HDMI is 4 pairs so it is 5GB/s for 4 fiber compared to 20GB/s for the OM4 cable.
I personally hate copper cables. There are so many bad cables out there that it can be hard to find one that works reliably (2-5m range). Knowing now that you can buy 5m fiber optic for 30€ I probably will move forward only buying fiber optic and just coil up the excess length.
HDMI over Ethernet box on either side.
$300 per connection: 2 display connections and two USB connections would cost $1200.
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1649024-REG/kanexpro_ext_50m18g_4k_18gbps_hdmi_over.html
https://www.avaccess.com/products/u3ex100-usb3-2-extender/
Does this answer your question?
My solution isn't cheap either: 10m USB-C 10gbit: 50€ each(b-stock/customer returns, normally expect to pay 100€), 15m DisplayPort & HDMI: 40€ each.
Total is approx. $200-2500 between cables and building materials.
And more often than not I find myself having to change one thing to wireless
Wireless HDMI is pretty interesting but low quality and high latency. The 60 GHz never took off and wouldn't work anyway as it can't pass through walls.
Wireless USB was a thing with USB 2.0 but it is dead. There was also some 60GHz USB for VR but that also failed in the market.
Water won't get there and if the entire house is flooded and the walls are wet.
Fire protection is up to code.
If you would want to specify this (commercial installation) you likely would need to explicitly allow its use as this shape is not in the ISO/DIN standard.
Data rates and cost:
2x Display connections = 40 gbs
2x USB 3.0 = 10 gbs
=> 50 gbs through a CAT 7 is difficult
OM4 fibre optic is dirt cheap (under $1/m) but the KVMs are expensive at $800.
Using optical thunderbolt cables is also very expensive with $700 for the cable and dock.
UL94 V0 filament is available: PLA, PETG, ABS, PC and probably more.
V0 means stops burning within 10 seconds and ~~no dripping~~. That's good enough for these applications.
edit: apparently dripping is allowed as long as those aren't flammable. Regardless most V0-rated filaments don't drip as the "charcoal" when exposed to fire.
Had to fit HDMI & Displayport cables through 25mm/1 inch electrical conduit (building static limits it to 25mm). The issue is that the connector won't fit through the commercial 90-degree corners.
Solution? Enlarge the profile while keeping the bending radius:
Some CAD and a 3D print later I have the solution no money can buy. That's the power of 3D-printing and modeling.
That's fair.
$10 retail
approx. $7 for the manufacturer (30% retail)
cost 2x "formular": $3.5
With packaging, this might cost around $3 to make.
Prusa XL is a difficult machine.
On the one hand, it pushes toolchangers to the mainstream. On the other hand, it is utterly unreliable for it's price.
Paying $5k for a printer and then finding out that the printed parts they used deform causing repairs, the heatbed title issues and some more and this is already after a massive delay (launched a few years later than they initially "announced").
The previous goat of toolchangers was the E3D toolchanger. While not perfect it at least had the build quality to match its price point (btw. lower cost than the Prusa XL) and if you fix one minor design oversight they are reliable.
There is no clear answer to what is better.
CoreXY:
bedslinger
TL;DR/Opinion?
Will report back tomorrow.
One more information: It happens immediately after turning the printer on. the heater output doesn't need to be enabled in the control interface or by g-code.
here is the schematic: https://github.com/Duet3D/Duet-2-Hardware/blob/master/Duet2/Duet2v1.06/Duet2_Schematic_v1.06.pdf
There is a 74HCT02 which can do up to 20mA so no pulldown resistor is required.
Not looking forward to cut traces on it for troubleshooting. It is an original board (no clone) so it should be exactly the parts in this schematic assuming the linked revision matches the board revision.
I would troubleshoot that hardware first
Was my first instinct as well as I didn't do any firmware updates prior.
The continuity test doesn't show a short and the test Duet recommended in one of the documentation was to remove the SD-card. If the issue stays it is a hardware issue. If it is "gone" it isn't and me removing the SD-card causes this behavior to stop further indicating a software issue. Reading the schematic right now for the first time and I am schoked that there is no ESD-protection at all. Nothing. Just a straight connection from the mosfet to the output... what the hell where they thinking ....
Would need to have an in-depth look at the schematic but likely I can't probe the MOSFET gate voltages in the circuit.
What I could do is probe the signal/heater enable signal from the MCU.
Pretty interesting question as high quality and layer adhesion is required.
**TL;DR Polymaker Polyterra **
PETG: Good layer adhesion but stringing. If you can perfectly print it this would be my choice.
PP: Excelent layer ahdesion. Easier to print than PETG but painting might be difficult.
TPU: Somewhat combing the worst of PP and PETG for this application.
ABS/ASA: requires enclosed printer, ideally heated to at least 70°C.
PLA: Easy to print and work with. If the mechanical properties are good enough this is it.
Personally, I really like the Polymaker Polyterra. Gives pretty results, easy to sand and paint.