EmilieEvans

joined 2 years ago
[–] EmilieEvans@lemmy.ml 1 points 1 week ago

FWIW I just looked at the AliExpress-tier options and they are much cheaper

Those low cost Aliexpress hdmi over RJ45 are "last gen" HDMI limiting yourself to 4k@30Hz. This place already has CAT7 cabling so this would have been so much easier but sadly it isn't good enough and the current gen are to expensive.

I didn’t even know HDMI cables went up to 15m for the copper version.

They are fiber optic with copper for power supply and side channel. For some reason they are fairly affordable compared to OM3 fiber solutions. Probably due to them running multiple fibers allowing the transceiver to be slower and simpler. With OM4 cables there is only one fiber per direction. I think HDMI is 4 pairs so it is 5GB/s for 4 fiber compared to 20GB/s for the OM4 cable.

I personally hate copper cables. There are so many bad cables out there that it can be hard to find one that works reliably (2-5m range). Knowing now that you can buy 5m fiber optic for 30€ I probably will move forward only buying fiber optic and just coil up the excess length.

[–] EmilieEvans@lemmy.ml 2 points 2 weeks ago (2 children)

HDMI over Ethernet box on either side.

$300 per connection: 2 display connections and two USB connections would cost $1200.

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1649024-REG/kanexpro_ext_50m18g_4k_18gbps_hdmi_over.html

https://www.avaccess.com/products/u3ex100-usb3-2-extender/

Does this answer your question?

My solution isn't cheap either: 10m USB-C 10gbit: 50€ each(b-stock/customer returns, normally expect to pay 100€), 15m DisplayPort & HDMI: 40€ each.

Total is approx. $200-2500 between cables and building materials.

And more often than not I find myself having to change one thing to wireless

Wireless HDMI is pretty interesting but low quality and high latency. The 60 GHz never took off and wouldn't work anyway as it can't pass through walls.

Wireless USB was a thing with USB 2.0 but it is dead. There was also some 60GHz USB for VR but that also failed in the market.

[–] EmilieEvans@lemmy.ml 5 points 2 weeks ago

Water won't get there and if the entire house is flooded and the walls are wet.

Fire protection is up to code.

If you would want to specify this (commercial installation) you likely would need to explicitly allow its use as this shape is not in the ISO/DIN standard.

[–] EmilieEvans@lemmy.ml 1 points 2 weeks ago (4 children)

Data rates and cost:

2x Display connections = 40 gbs

2x USB 3.0 = 10 gbs

=> 50 gbs through a CAT 7 is difficult

OM4 fibre optic is dirt cheap (under $1/m) but the KVMs are expensive at $800.

Using optical thunderbolt cables is also very expensive with $700 for the cable and dock.

[–] EmilieEvans@lemmy.ml 20 points 2 weeks ago* (last edited 2 weeks ago) (1 children)

UL94 V0 filament is available: PLA, PETG, ABS, PC and probably more.

V0 means stops burning within 10 seconds and ~~no dripping~~. That's good enough for these applications.

edit: apparently dripping is allowed as long as those aren't flammable. Regardless most V0-rated filaments don't drip as the "charcoal" when exposed to fire.

 

Had to fit HDMI & Displayport cables through 25mm/1 inch electrical conduit (building static limits it to 25mm). The issue is that the connector won't fit through the commercial 90-degree corners.

Solution? Enlarge the profile while keeping the bending radius:

Some CAD and a 3D print later I have the solution no money can buy. That's the power of 3D-printing and modeling.

[–] EmilieEvans@lemmy.ml 15 points 3 weeks ago

Yes you can:

  • enable Arachne in the slicer

  • tune the pressure advance setting

[–] EmilieEvans@lemmy.ml 1 points 1 month ago* (last edited 1 month ago)

That's fair.

$10 retail

approx. $7 for the manufacturer (30% retail)

cost 2x "formular": $3.5

With packaging, this might cost around $3 to make.

[–] EmilieEvans@lemmy.ml 1 points 1 month ago (1 children)

Prusa XL is a difficult machine.

On the one hand, it pushes toolchangers to the mainstream. On the other hand, it is utterly unreliable for it's price.

Paying $5k for a printer and then finding out that the printed parts they used deform causing repairs, the heatbed title issues and some more and this is already after a massive delay (launched a few years later than they initially "announced").

The previous goat of toolchangers was the E3D toolchanger. While not perfect it at least had the build quality to match its price point (btw. lower cost than the Prusa XL) and if you fix one minor design oversight they are reliable.

[–] EmilieEvans@lemmy.ml 0 points 1 month ago (3 children)

There is no clear answer to what is better.

CoreXY:

  • lower moving mass (benefit)
  • stationary bed (benefit)
  • compact dimensions, easy to build an enclosure (benefit)
  • VERY long belts (downside) => you can upgrade to high pitch ball screw and servos (no longer coreXY) => even superior are linear induction motors like those used in pick and place machines but both options would cost significantly more (will never be seen on consumer printer).

bedslinger

  • short belts are good for dimensional accuracy
  • independent axis makes it easy to get a high rigidity with good dampening characteristics further benefiting the print quality
  • bed is moving this is a significant limitation for fragile/tall prints. You can pretty easily simulate the distortion this will cause. To keep it fair: Even with coreXY there will be some forces/drag from the molten material/nozzle to the printed parts.

TL;DR/Opinion?

  • CoreXY it is for the consumer market. Those machines look nicer, are smaller and print quality matches expectations.
  • For the (ultra) high end it gets blurry. There are outstanding bed slinger options out there made of granite frames, precision linear rails, and so on. These machines aren't designed for high speed but for ultimate reliability and quality with price tages in the $10k+ range for a 200x200mm machine.
 

Comparing HyperFFF and "traditional" G-Code for Raise3D machines I noticed that the only difference seems to be the M99123 command at the beginning of the file (identical for different STL-models):

M99123 /RKIIyAfrgVn63QgWjcMv3w/DQafsD84EnC8915R6MD0Ipw/VGrHawCYdCJaNwKoDQafsD84EnC8915R6MD/RKIIyAfrgVn63QgWjcMv3w/DQafsD84EnC8915R6MD0Ipw/VGrHawCYdCJaNwKoDQafsD84EnC8915R6M/RKIIyAfrgVn63QgWjcMv3w/DQafsD84EnC8915R6MD0Ipw/VGrHawCYdCJaNwKoDQafsD84EnC8915R6M/RKIIyAfrgVn63QgWjcMv3w/DQafsD84EnC8915R6MD0Ipw/VGrHawCYdCJaNwKoDQafsD84EnC8915R6MD0Ipw/VGrHawCYdCJaNwKoDQafsD84EnC8915R6MD0Ipw/DQafsD84EnC8915R6MD0IpD0Ipw/VGrHawCYdCJaNwKoDQafsD84EnC8915R6MD0Ipw/DQafsD84EnC8915R6MD0IpD0Ipw/VGrHawCYdCJaNwKoDQafsD84EnC8915R6MD0Ipw/DQafsD84EnC8915R6MD0Ip0Ipw/VGrHawCYdCJaNwKoDQafsD84EnC8915R6MD0Ipw/DQafsD84EnC8915R6MD0Ipw

Any clue how this G-code command works and what is written there?

 

Last SLA printer I touched was the original Anycubic Photon with Anycubic cure & wash with Anycubic tough resin. Looking at all the current options I am lost what I should buy. Resin heating, pressure detection, vat tilting and all of this wasn't a thing back than.

With the past experience in mind what printer, curing staton & resin should I get?

for the printer:

First three points have to be fullfiled. The others aspects are more nice to have.

  • relaible!!! I want to start a print and return once it is done. Not worrying about print failures
  • Works with a good slicer. Back in the day I used PrusaSlicer with UV-tools to convert it to Anycubic fileformat.
  • resin vat mixing (vat tilting is good enough) to prevent resins from seperating during long prints
  • decently sealed print volume: reducing the vapours/"smell"
  • "speed": should be faster than the original Anycubic photon
  • build volume: at least 127×80×150 mm. Larger is better (ideally upto 160x160 mm parts)
  • network connectivity instead of USB-sticks or SD-card.
  • budget approx. 500€.

cure and washing:

  • easy to keep clean
  • at least two washing containers (first stage dirty IPA, second stage "clean" IPA)
  • good solution to let the resin and washing fluid drip off the print
  • smooth rotation. Had to modify the Anycubic cure and wash because prints kept falling
  • uniform curing. This includes curing the top and bottom of prints
  • I noticed none of the printers have magnetic/spring metal build platforms. Are they outdated/no longer required?
  • budget depends but for a good solution, I would spend approx. 300€.

cleaning liquid: Is isopropanol alcohol (IPA) still the goto?

resin:

  • Will be used for structural parts meaning impact resistance paired with decent rigidity is important. In Detail impact resistance on paar with Anycubic though resin. Ideally slightly more rigid. Some wear resistance is a benefit (e.g. gears).

  • Decorative clear resin that won't yellow

  • "low cost". Would pref an under 30€/kg resin with a budget of upto 50€/kg (approx. 5kg order volume/lot size)

What am I considering at the moment?

  • used Prusa SL1S with CW1 for approx. 800€: Last experience with Prusa firmware was outstandingly bad. The Prusa mini had constant crashes/required reboots and had even to be removed before turning the printer on as otherwise it wouldn't show firmware errors/wouldn't start. Hardware on the other hand was pretty reliable so I hope that the SL1S is reliable, has bugfree firmware, and native prusaslicer support. Replacement parts should also be available for years to come which is great.

  • elegoo saturn 4 ultra 16K: This printer got me thinking. Cost a fraction of the Prusa, is larger, has modern features and appears to be reliable. I remember that a while ago chitobox added DRM so I am not sure if I want to buy this if I am stuck with chitubox slicer.

  • Anycubic Photon Mono M7 pro Instead of tilting they use a pump for resin circulation. How big of a pain is it to clean this? Anycubic slicer last time was uselss and I have no clue if Anycubic also pushed DRM meaning I couldn't just switch to a good slicer. I really like the pressure detection to detect print failures.

Cure and wash?

No idea. all the solutions I have looked at seem to be still similar to the old anycubic cure and wash. The Prusa CW1 on the other hand looks like a well-thought-out solution.

Resin?

No idea.

 

3D-model collections like Printables or Thingiverse are awesome. Required (ASAP) a CPU socket cover to ship the motherboard. Found it online and 15 minutes later I had the part on hand.