HewlettHackard

joined 2 years ago
[–] HewlettHackard@lemmy.ca 2 points 4 days ago

My 4100 is a “newer” model and I’m happy to report that it was openable by screwing a bolt into the charging hole. But annoyed to report I had to do that in the first place after <3 years due to water ingress.

[–] HewlettHackard@lemmy.ca 5 points 4 days ago

Correct: newer models have no screw.

[–] HewlettHackard@lemmy.ca 5 points 4 days ago

The whole reason I had to open mine up is that water got inside, and I don’t even use it in the shower. I think they removed the screw to either cut costs or make it more difficult to repair.

[–] HewlettHackard@lemmy.ca 4 points 4 days ago

My previous one (an older model, which had a screw in the bottom) lasted a long time. This newer “sealed” one got water inside within 2-3 years and had no screw. Fortunately it seems that opening it up and cleaning the circuit board helped.

 

I’m not really sure where to post this, but wanted to share that screwing a 1/4-20 bolt into the bottom hole of my otherwise-sealed Philips Sonicare 4100 and just pulling on it successfully opens the toothbrush. An M6 screw might work too; M5 is slightly too small. Philips says to use a hammer to open it, which is absurd. The battery is still soldered, but in my case that wasn’t what I needed to repair anyway.

Apparently other brands are designed to have replaceable batteries. Don’t buy Philips Sonicare.

[–] HewlettHackard@lemmy.ca 2 points 5 months ago

Interestingly, the supports could even dissolve in the main liquid ingredient of the original resin, like a cube of ice in water. This means that the material used to print structural supports could be continuously recycled: Once a printed structure’s supporting material dissolves, that mixture can be blended directly back into fresh resin and used to print the next set of parts — along with their dissolvable supports.

Unless I’m reading this too optimistically, it seems like recovering the resin just requires adding more of the original solvent, which sounds pretty good (as long as that solvent isn’t much nastier than a regular resin solvent).

 

Has anyone ever experimented with Banksia wood for woodworking? The picture used by one random seller online looks pretty interesting. I’m not in Australia, so I don’t really have the wood available and don’t want to spend $$$$ shipping something that might be awful.

[–] HewlettHackard@lemmy.ca 1 points 6 months ago* (last edited 6 months ago)

Maybe, but your examples aren’t repeatedly wetted and dried. Could the repeated cycles cause the particles to move deeper?

[–] HewlettHackard@lemmy.ca 0 points 7 months ago* (last edited 7 months ago) (2 children)

The illustrations seem to indicate that stains and dead microbes accumulate in the middle of the wood, deep below the surface. It would be interesting to slice an old wood cutting board in half and see the accumulated stains!

 

What’s a decent blade for ripping accurately? I’m using an old Craftsman 113 belt-driven saw, which I understand isn’t very powerful. I’d like to get nice rips on some 3/4” thick oak. If I can rip thicker stock in the future, that would be great, but as long as I can at least rip thicker softwoods too I think I’ll be satisfied.

I don’t expect to do enough woodworking to worry about a blade made to last through many re-sharpenings; I just want nice rips. Is a $20-30 Diablo from a big box store going to do what I want, or do I really need to step up to the $70-80 range for cut quality? Thanks!

[–] HewlettHackard@lemmy.ca 1 points 1 year ago (1 children)

It was sold in the gift shop, not on display. I know it’s not an enormous difference, but let’s try our best to keep the misinformation just on their side.