osbo9991

joined 3 years ago
[–] osbo9991@lemmy.world 3 points 3 weeks ago (7 children)

Others already addressed battery cost, so I will address charging time:

For modern EVs, charging time is basically a non-issue outside of longer road trips. Most EV owners utilize a slower (level 1 or level 2) charging station at home, which allows them to charge the car while they are at home/sleeping. EV owners can also use charging stations near/at their destination to charge while they are doing other things anyway. And assuming your daily commute isn't like 100 miles/160 km, you really don't need to stop at charging stations at all besides the one at home, which is cheaper. Obviously this does not apply if you rent a house or live in an apartment, etc.

Even road trips aren't so bad assuming the car has an 800 volt battery pack instead of a 400 volt (higher voltage at same current = more power to charge and faster charge time). It also helps a lot if you only charge to 80 percent instead of 100 because that last 20 percent almost doubles your charge time and is harder on the battery. A lot of new EV owners don't understand this and get frustrated when they are sitting there for 40 minutes getting almost no additional range compared to waiting for 20 minutes.

[–] osbo9991@lemmy.world 56 points 1 month ago* (last edited 1 month ago) (6 children)

Let's assume Costco size hot dogs (1/4 lb, or 0.11 kg), with an internal temp increase from fridge temperatures (37 F, or 276 K) to 165 F (347 K). Let's also assume the heat capacity of the hot dog is about 3000 J/kg*K. To heat up a single hot dog takes this much energy:

q=mc*deltaT => q=(0.11 kg)*(3000 J/kg*K)*(347K-276K)=23,430 J of energy.

The heat capacity here is 9GW. That is 9 gigajoules of energy per second, or 9 billion joules every second. Divide this by the number of joules to cook each hot dog gets us the number of hot dogs that could be cooked every second:

9,000,000,000/23,430=384,123 hot dogs/second

With this hot dogs per second figure, we can find how long this energy source would take to feed the entire US population a Costco hot dog.

342,000,000 people/384,123 hot dogs per sec=890 seconds

Converting this to minutes:

890/60=14.8 minutes

So, this source of energy could feed the entire population of the US a Costco hot dog in less than 15 minutes if properly harnessed.

[–] osbo9991@lemmy.world 8 points 2 months ago (3 children)

Hey, I recognize that model of kindle! It's the same as mine, a 4th gen non-touch. Have you ever thought of jailbreaking it to use koreader? I jailbroke mine and koreader is much nicer than the stock interface. Here is a good tutorial for this particular model (in comments, by spartanheavy): https://www.reddit.com/r/kindle/comments/1ipko3u/got_myself_kindle_4th_gen/

[–] osbo9991@lemmy.world 1 points 2 months ago

Maybe, but it is pretty affordable (~$26 USD), the hardware and software is open source, and it is very portable due to the lack of a soldering station. It is also temp adjustable and has features like temp boost for heat sucking components like ground planes. For nerds, they have a risc-v devboard that you can use with the soldering iron's CPU. So, there are reasons it has a CPU, but some would probably still prefer a regular dumb soldering iron.

[–] osbo9991@lemmy.world 2 points 2 months ago (2 children)

Another happy owner of a pinecil here. For me it gets plenty hot and works great. There isn't a battery though, you're meant to use it wired with either USB C PD 65 Watts or 12V standard size barrel plug at similar wattage. More info on the pinecil wiki: https://wiki.pine64.org/wiki/Pinecil_Power_Supplies

Also, here's some more general info about pinecil from their wiki: https://wiki.pine64.org/wiki/Pinecil

[–] osbo9991@lemmy.world 2 points 4 months ago

Didn't even notice that bit lol. After reading lots of articles on the internet, one tends to skip all the BS in the intro. Can't disagree with that paragraph more.

I still think the rest of the guide is very good though, it walked me through tons of complicated config I could not have figured out on my own. Turns out you have to configure the VM to have special VirtIO hardware and install the drivers for that hardware within the Windows VM, among other various tweaks.

Also, this setup 100% should be people's last resort for running software on Linux. I would be using wine if I could, but the SolidWorks for Linux project has stalled in favor of the fusion360 for Linux project, so I had no choices other than installing Windows 11 on my old laptop or installing it in a VM.

[–] osbo9991@lemmy.world 6 points 4 months ago (3 children)

I've gotten solidworks to work in a Windows 11 VM with decent performance. I use Virtual Machine Manager, which is a GUI that uses QEMU/KVM on the backend.

I used this guide for better performance, and it also resolved an issue where solidworks wouldn't install because it could tell it was in a VM.

[–] osbo9991@lemmy.world 1 points 5 months ago (1 children)

The site Techpir8 linked is distrosea, which lets you test Linux distros in a browser window (the Linux distros run on distrosea's servers). No need for Ventoy.

[–] osbo9991@lemmy.world 25 points 5 months ago (5 children)

Dual boot sucks because Windows likes to overwrite partitions critical to booting Linux without warning.

You could use Virtual Machine Manager (GUI frontend for QEMU/KVM, the most performant VM software on Linux). Here is a good guide on how to optimize the settings for a Windows 11 guest. I've used this guide to get SolidWorks, a CAD program, to work decent, so I assume other professional programs like Lightroom will run well too.

[–] osbo9991@lemmy.world 2 points 5 months ago (1 children)

I haven't needed to search for an amp myself since this is my only "good" pair of headphones, and they sound fine right out of my PC.

I looked into it, and I found this video from crinacle (well known audiophile in the headphone world) that discusses options that are in the ~$30 USD range that would definitely be loud enough. Namely, the JCALLY JM20 Max. In the video he does warn that this dac/amp could be too loud for some headphones, so maybe you could try the JCALLY JM6 Pro instead (~$15 USD). I would highly recommend watching his video to weigh your options.

[–] osbo9991@lemmy.world 1 points 5 months ago (3 children)

The 250 ohm version probably needs a decent headphone amplifier to be loud enough, the 80 ohm version will work with any headphone jack you plug it into.

I have a pair of DT770 pros 80 ohm and they work with anything that has a headphone jack.

[–] osbo9991@lemmy.world 1 points 10 months ago

Similar story here, just with my dad's SNES around that same time. Mainly played link to the past, as it was the only game we had for a bit, but we bought a couple others (super Mario world, where in the world is Carmen San Diego, ms pac man) on eBay later on. Both myself and my dad's old save states are still on the cartridge last I checked.

Then we got a Wii around 2013 when my uncle was upgrading to Wii U, we got a PS2 slim from my grandparents (to play DDR with these terrible dance pads we never ended up using much), and I got a 3ds xl for my (12th?) birthday. That 3ds was the only console I got when it was even remotely new, and I have moved on to pc games ever since (at least for newer titles). My brother has continued collecting retro games, and has added an Atari 2600, a sega genesis, and my dad's NES to the collection. Currently, the Wii, PS2, and 3DS have been softmodded and are still used fairly regularly.

It's probably affected my taste in video games too - I get mostly old stuff or indie titles.

 

I have been using a cheap TKL AliExpress hot swap board for a little while, and I want to upgrade because:

  1. I miss the numpad
  2. Build quality is better than the average membrane keyboard, but still not great

I'm planning to get the keychron V6 because it is is one of the few keyboards that are:

  1. Not ultra expensive
  2. Full size
  3. Has a knob for volume control
  4. Reasonable build quality
  5. Hot swap
  6. QMK/VIA support is nice

The only issue is that I am not sure what switches and keycaps to get. I was considering saving my money and going with stock switches (keychron k pro reds) and keycaps (in-house "OSA" profile), but I do not know if I will like this keycap profile. My current board has OEM profile keycaps, and those are fine, but I want to try more "spherical" rather than "cylindrical" profiles, and it doesn't seem like the stock keychron keycaps are particularly spherical, at least in photos. If they are more spherical in person, I might go this route.

My other plan I was considering was to try keychron's other in-house profile, "KSA", which seems more spherical to me (https://www.keychron.com/products/double-shot-ksa-pbt-keycap-full-keycap-set), or maybe a mt3 set (but I'm not sure about getting an abs set, my current keycaps are getting shiny). For switches, I was thinking of buying the tried-and-true gateron milky yellows, but I am not sure if there are better bang for the buck options out there for smooth linear switches.

TL;DR: Should I go with stock switches and keycaps to start out? Or should I get the bare bones keychron V6, a spherical keycap set (KSA or mt3), and budget linears like gateron milky yellows?

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