this post was submitted on 25 Jul 2025
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I'm trying to get back into 3d pruning after a long hiatus.

I found my old Anycubic Chiron, and thought I'd give it a go. Smaller prints seem fine. But anything longer than an hour. Come off like this. I say that what I mean is I excitedly take the multi hour print off the bed in excitement and for get to look at how it is.

The two longer prints definitely were at least in part still adhered to the print bed despite it being cold.

My next plan is to set a print away and check on it every hour or so and see if one side of the print has warped mid print (so far I've been printing before I go to bed, and only watching the initial couple of layers).

My guess it that the (pla+) filament is warping mid print... Its old I'll admit. But was stored in an airtight container with silica packs, and I dried it out before using. But any of your thoughts would be greatly appreciated!

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[–] Setiyeti93@lemmy.ca 2 points 3 days ago (1 children)

Thanks for the advice.

The heated bed was set to 70, however I've realised it's actually only for the initial layer where it drops to 60.

Do you think I should try to consistent 60 or 70?

I do have an IR thermometer so I will give it a thorough probe..

As for an enclosure... This is something I remember planning when I initially got the machine years ago. Unfortunately one of the big selling points of the any cubic chiron was the enormous build plate! This means building of an enclosure for it eats up quite a bit of space 😂 It's currently situated underneath a desk with three of the four sides covered, but I shall make a curtain to cover the front.

N.b. I can't ever recall using any significant amount of the enormous build plate... So when I look to buy a new printer, I'll definitely go with something a lot smaller, with an enclosure.

[–] FuglyDuck@lemmy.world 3 points 3 days ago

its not uncommon to start high and come down a bit. PLA+ typically has it's glass transition right around there, and you do not want to be above that.

check the actual surface temperature, if you can, since most beds, the surface will be cooler than what the probe under it is saying, but typically you want 55ish for printing temp.

another way you can check is to just set some scrap plastic of the same filament on it. If it goes rubbery and pliant, its too high. the tricky thing about glass transition is it's not a single point, it's more of a small range, where, approaching it, it starts getting noticeably softer until it stops changing as much.