What does that even mean?
When you go down stairs you want your weight backwards over the rear wheel which is gonna add more weight to the back wheel. To "deweight" the rear wheel you'd need to lean forward which is only going to end in pain going down a stair set.
edit are you referring to going up curbs as opposed to downstairs? In which case this would be relevant?
I've done a lot of work on cars too and I'd take a bike over a car any day of the week xD
No worries dude! Don't beat yourself up over thinking that should be right because how could you know. If you have been cycling for less than two weeks the fact that you are willing to build the bike yourself and having a go at adjusting things as well as being willing to come here and expand your knowledge puts you way above most people I see who can't even do basic maintenance on their bikes and ride around with rusted out chains and the like.
Some jobs on bikes can seem daunting at first but there is so much info out on the internet that if you possess common sense and just an ability to use tools correctly you can do most jobs yourself with a bit of research and trial and error. Generally speaking bikes are fairly simple machines and if you can maintain, adjust and fix the things yourself not only do you save a lot of money, you gain the satisfaction of knowing you did it along with actually knowing your bike well. If you have an issue out in the field you know how a part works and so can better diagnose and fix or at least bodge it together to get yourself home.
Each upgrade you add or problem you fix will add to your overall knowledge of the bike and bikes in general!
Like I said I probably wouldn't bother paying for a bike fit at your stage, I just thought I'd mention it. Local bike shops might offer a cheap version but I wouldn't trust that to be perfectly honest. There are plenty of YouTube videos out there that explain the adjustments and what effects they can have on different parts of your body, if you are having any discomfort in the future then I recommend watching a few, get some ideas of what to change then just get out riding and try out adjustments. Again it is free and you also get to learn your bike more.
For example recently I was getting a bit of knee pain when I cycled 30km plus, so I researched what could be the likely causes and adjusted back and forth over time to get to a better place. In the end I lowered my seat probably around 5mm, moved the seat backwards about the same and adjusted the angle of the seat by a few degrees. All these tiny movements seem inconsequential but I now feel even better on the bike even though I wasn't uncomfortable before then and since I have done many long rides with no knee issues what so ever!
Let us know how it is, I'd be interested how you feel with the difference seen as you don't have a lot of experience. Also feel free to ask any other questions you may have :D
I'm sorry but the average speed across all stages in the Tour de France is around 41km/h there is no way that you could average 50kp/h unless your route was entirely downhill. Even then if it was a commute you'd have to return up that hill which would then normalise your average.
No worries man, i know you are new and there is a shit ton of different terminology to deal with with bikes, a longer stem makes more sense to me now :D
Generally speaking handle bars are made with different amounts of rise to lift the bars upwards as you can see here on my bike which has a lot more rise than you -
It isn't unsafe or anything like that to mount them the other way up I just can't say I have seen it done before and obviously this will change your position on the bike and comfort levels more than you would think, even mm in difference in all things like handle bars, stems, seat position etc can make drastic differences to comfort, especially over long distances.
Are the bars entirely straight across from left to right? Most bars usually also have different amounts of sweep which is the degrees that the bars go back and up as you can see here on mine -
They aren't entirely straight and that sweep should be towards you rather than away.
One post you said your hands / wrists ached for a bit. Whilst this is normal as you aren't used to riding a bike it can also be due to bar positioning as you could be adding extra force at points where you don't want it due to a combination of how your bars are positioned and how you use them, beyond this sometimes this can result in numbness in the hands too which obviously you don't want.
"Bike fit" which incorporates everything from handle bars to stem length to seat position, tilt and height can all have a lot more drastic impacts on your body than you'd think even through small adjustments and is something you should tinker with to try and find the best position for you. You can pay to have one done professionally but it would probably cost more than your bike is worth to begin with so at this point I'd avoid that.
I would be inclined to adjust your handlebars so that the rise is facing upwards, if you have any sweep have it so the ends of the bars are closer to you than the center rather than further away before you start buying new stems and things like that as they are all things you can do for free.
If you change it and don't like it you can always switch it back to how you have it now, it looks weird to me but it isn't like it is dangerous and your comfort is more important than how it looks.
I have spent the last year tweaking my current bike trying to get it in the perfect place so it definitely takes some time. Make small adjustments, go for a longer ride and then assess how you feel. I realise it will be harder for you not know bikes in general as well due to being new but you can still tell what is and isn't comfortable and if you are getting any pain in places like knees and wrists.
Good luck with this new journey and enjoy it!
I have no idea what you mean by fork extension but I presume you mean raising the front end up a bit. In the picture you posted in another reply it looks like your handlebars are on upside down to me. You have a load of stem spaces increasing the height but then your handle bars appear to point downwards.
I may be wrong because of the angle of the photo or maybe they were intended to be like that (no idea why but still) but I'd be interested in seeing a few pictures from a few other angles. If they are upsidedown then it is a fairly easy fix and may improve you riding position considerably without buying anything else.
I wouldn't say "totally harmless", don't get me wrong it isn't like I am going to be scared of a sheep in the way I might some kind of large predator but males will charge you and ram the shit out of you and if they have horns that has the potential to be nasty.
We used to have a sheep that loved being stroked and would head butt you in appreciation, the only problem is the more he enjoyed it the more of a run up he got each time, harder and harder. When you are a small kid a sheep ramming the shit out of you literally sends you flying.
But I love the idiots, they are great!
Thank god for basement flats when it is hot, I was strongly considering a jumper last night at one point......
Yeh this is true and I was just trying to add a bit of humour as I thought OP was joking around a bit. However on returning to this thread I realise OP is just a massive cunt looking for a fight.
I'm not gonna delete my post "like a fucken pussy" but yeh, it no longer has the jokey vibe I intended when looking around at the rest of the thread and the intentionally belligerent responses from OP.
Apologies everyone!
These people obviously never grew up on a farm, looks fine to me you've got glasses on and even used a jack stand xD
No. Those issues will more likely be caused by smashing the wheels into a curb or stairs going up them and not using your weight over the bike to help the wheels up. A hard impact like that can cause a pinch flat if you are running tubes of possibly damage the rims too depending on the severity of the hit.
Tyre pressures really do depend on what type of riding you will be doing and your terrain.
50-55 is good for trying to stop pinch flats if you are running tubes and for running around on pavements and the like keeping your speed up by trying to have less deformation in the tyre to make your rolling resistance marginally less.
Conversely if you are riding off road then you want less pressure as that helps the tyre deform more, increasing the amount of tyre that is in contact with the ground at once and there by increasing your grip levels.
Damage like that is more dependant on the way you ride your bike and tackle obstacles as no amount of pressure is going to protect your rims in your just plough through objects. If I'm riding on tarmac with my MTB then I'll usually add a bit more pressure but only up to about 30psi (this is tubeless though bear in mind) and stair sets are not an issue.