They also provide a better user experience. Combined with a home charger, even the low end EVs are a better overall drive than a class up ICE vehicle. After owning EVs for a couple of years, I realized I can feel the engine when I ride in an ICE vehicle.
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I've been repeating this ever since the first 2026 Iran war when prices started to go up.
In Australia, the average commute in a petrol car costs $125 per week in petrol. To get an EV on a loan costs $85 in repayments per week and $10 of energy per week.
It is literally cheaper to give an ICE car away and take a loan to buy an EV than to continue to drive the ICE car.
This must be why we only have $45,000+ (60k AUD) EVs available in the US. Especially since they the Republican morons canceled the tax rebates because they were too woke.
Edit: it may not have been clear that I’m stuck with shitty used ice options in a much dumber country than Australia.
This site has a database of EVs for sale in Australia - currently the cheapest is BYD Atto 1 at $23,990. For comparison, the cheapest ICE car to buy new is Kia Picanto Sport manual at $19,190 (Edit: or MG 3 Vibe auto at $20,990 if you can't drive a manual transmission).
new EVs are definitely overpriced, but secondhand ones, for the brave, are an excellent option. Ask me how I know 😁
Donald Trump has instigated the dumbest way to get the world to end its dependency on oil. I sleep well knowing, like the covid vaccine, he can't brag about it.
How does one avoid DRM and maintain repairability using common tools outside of the power storage and motors? As in, not requiring a $1,000,000 piece of software with a $6,000/mo subscription to the mothership just to authorize work on the brakes? Yes, Hyundai is already forcing this on customers.
How does one avoid subscriptions, to ensure everything that came with the vehicle works 100% without having to pay a single cent extra? Because if it came with the vehicle I had damn well have full and unrestricted access to use it.
And most importantly, how does one avoid being tracked and recorded, such that absolutely nothing about you, your driving habits, or what happens around your vehicle is uploaded to the manufacturer or even stored on the vehicle, to be recovered at a later date without your express consent, invariably to be used against you?
I’ll gladly buy the first post-1930s EV that has none of these issues.
I fully expect to die of old age before that happens.
And that's 2025. I'm sure 2026 will be an even bigger difference.
The increase in petrol prices has a lot to do with war, and I think we should recognise the cost of this to people just like us in Ukraine and Iran.
"But but but! Who cares about the present! Electricity cost will go up too sometime in the future! So buy gas now! Yaargh!!!"
– typical O&G promoter.
I’ve just got an EV for my wife to replace her diesel Freelander.
We charge for 8p/kWh. She’s used 124kW to do just over 500 miles, so it’s cost £9.94
In the Freelander is would be about 73l @ £1.90ish a L so would cost around £138
Obviously I have to pay the cost of the lease, but the fuel difference will almost cover that, and the lease covers everything. Insurance, tyres, maintenance etc.
EVs don’t necessarily fit every use case but my wife is a mobile hairdresser and does a lot local driving, it definitely makes sense for her.
I have never bought a vehicle for more than $5k. Once used EV’s are down to that price - and even 10yo Chevy Bolts with nearly-dead batteries are $20k+ up here in Canada - I might reconsider.
Until then, I would much rather plan to do an electric conversion on something simple, like a 2000 Mazda 626 or a Type 2 VW Jetta.
Because my other objection to anything made after 2006 comes down to one of more of three critical nasties:
- Subscriptions. Literally paying a second time for shit that already came with the vehicle.
- Repairability and DRM. If I can’t fix most things outside of the engine and transmission with a basic set of hand tools, it’s a hard no for me. And some cars are already implementing DRM, forcing things like brake replacements to be done at dealerships.
- Privacy. Almost all cars after 2006 and most with OnStar before that time are privacy nightmares. If it phones home with my personal data or stores it anywhere on the vehicle, I need to be able to bodily rip that functionality out of the vehicle without crippling it in any way.
As a EV driver, all the money you save on gas, save it for tires.
Drive responsibly and don't get fooled by marketing. Your EV is not more expensive on tires than a gas car or SUV.
Heavier vehicles do wear tires quicker though. Tires on a heavier vehicle that can easily spin the tires from a standstill every single time moreso.
And batteries are still heavy as fuck.
EVs are slightly heavier than visually similarly sized ICE vehicles. They also tend to have significantly higher torque from a stopped position, so those who like to mash the throttle with a heavier foot might experience much faster wear than they're used to.
But drive it like normal and they should basically still last 90% as long as tires on a similarly specced ICE vehicle.
I went from a V8 mustang to the model 3 so they're fairly close to the same weight class, model 3 still weights a bit more, and similar type of acceleration and course my driving is going to be the same in both. I went from 40 -45K miles between tire changes to 25K -30K between changes with similar Pirelli tires and a early "EV rated" tires, which were more expensive than even the Pirelli's.
That's been my experience with my EV so far but even with the tires, it's still better than ICE for the most part.
Tires, wipers, and wiper fluid. the only maintenance I have done in 70k miles on my volvo.
Tires last longer if you don't drive like a cunt.
It's all down to driving style. My first set of tires is on 105k km and still has over 5mm thread left.
Europe is also pretty good for public transit, walking and biking, is it not?
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